hey if anyone has worked on a chevy 350 before, i need some help. i can't get the distributor to go back in all the way. i turned the rotor and lifted it out to line up the key on the bottome but it drops down further than any other position but i still have like half an inch gap, which im assuming is the gear not wating to drop in correctly. if anyone has an idea or wants to help me out lemme know. thanks.....
I can help you. You do need to turn the rotor, the gear at the end has teeth cut angular. Turn the rotor about 1/4" either way, and it should drop right in. If its still not going in, its proably not engaging with the oil pump drive rod. If you still can't figure it out, i could give you a hand on Saturday (i'll be gone this evening and all of tomorrow). You just need to fiddle with the rotor to get it to drop in.
i've been trying to do that and it wont line up at all.... so maybe i need to turn the oil pump a little bit to get the gear to line up and drop in right?
I had the same problem on my TPI motor you just have to keep spinning that oil pump key untill the distributor lines up. You have to anticipate the amount the distributor will turn when meshed with the cam gear. That is how you will have to line the oil pump up. Remeber to set the distributor in the right tooth or your timing will be messed up.
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few minor mods
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You should defenitly get a timing light any time you remove the distributor.....O'Reilly's or Autozone might have a loaner you can use. Even if you get it back in perfect i'd check the timing with a light anyway to make sure it is set right. If the timing isn't set right, the engine won't run right.
did this distributor come out of this engine?
is the rotor shaft engaged?(it should have about .2-.8 play at the rotor tip)
until you answer those...
-there are 13 teeth, you might have to take it out, advance it 1 tooth & try again 7 times(oil pump shaft accordingly).
-turn the engine over by hand backwards & see if it drops in.
-if you put in an aftermarket/HiPerf oil pump, some require a special shaft(which SHOULD have been included).
-if your oil pump shaft has a sleeve, it might not be fully seated.
-some distributors have different drive gears & lengths. (are you changing from points to hei, or aftermarket?)
-check the roll pin holding on the distributor drive gear. and inside the drive gear, while you're there.
-make sure the part of the distributor OUTSIDE the block isn't hitting something.
i can help tomorrow after 10:50
maybe today if you catch me at kmnr somewhere between 2-4
side note to the timing light proponents:
if you can't time/tune an engine by ear, you chouldn't be working on it.
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i can tune by ear, and it did come out of the engine.... it just wont go back in.... ill probably get it in today..... hopefully.... if not ill take you up on that tomorrow.....
side note to the timing light proponents: if you can't time/tune an engine by ear, you chouldn't be working on it.
Most old guys i know that have been working on cars for decades time by ear. I've only been messing with them for 4 years or so now so i use a light. I just advance it until i hear spark knock under a load, and back it off 2 degrees at a time until it stops. My SBC likes 11 degrees BTDC. I've also re-curved my distributor and put on an adjustable vaccum advance....helped out with power and mileage a small amount.
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